Dagger FAQ

When choosing the correct kayak, there are many factors to consider. We recommend visiting your local Dagger dealer to assist in this decision. The information provided here will help you understand our product line and steer you in the right direction.

STEP ONE – PADDLING STYLE

Where do you want to kayak and what will you be doing? Dagger whitewater kayaks fall into 3 general categories. Each category has a unique combination of size options, outfitting, performance features, and safety for the intended uses (outlined below).

Many Dagger kayaks are designed with performance features from multiple whitewater categories. Once you’ve determined generally what type of kayaker you want to be, it is important to schedule a demo with your local Dagger dealer to find exactly the right boat for you.

View Chart

STEP TWO – PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTICS

Once you’ve gotten a general idea of your paddling style, you are able to narrow it down more precisely by understanding the performance characteristics that are typical for each category. Below is a chart of how each performs relative to the other categories in each characteristic.

View chart

Definitions:

Looseness on Wave – How easy it is to spin a boat while surfing a wave.

Aerial Tricks  – Designed to leave the surface of the water, use in freestyle moves.

Acceleration  – How quickly you can attain speed from a stopped position.

Length – Overall length, generally better speed and tracking.

Safety Features – Features designed for safety during situations such as boat impact, quick exiting of boat, retrieval of a trapped boat

BROWSE ALL DAGGER WHITEWATER KAYAKS

STEP THREE – FEATURES AND OUTFITTING

Once you’ve decided on a kayak model or two that fits your needs, looking at the features and outfitting can help in making your decision.

Cockpit: Options include thigh braces for boat control, hip pads for tighter fit, adjustable backband for back support and posture, pleasure wedger for thigh height adjustment.

Bulkheads and Footbraces: Located in the bow (front) of the boat, bulkheads and footbraces offer rigid foot support. Some models include adjustable foam footbraces for easy customization.

Frame Construction/Support: Look for features such as D-bone welded-in seat track, which offers hull rigidity and horizontal stability. Safety step out walls provide more rigidity between hull and deck, also offers easier exiting capability in an emergency situation.

Sprayskirts: A must-have for all whitewater kayaks, a sprayskirt offers a water-tight seal, keeping the cockpit from taking on water, including “rolling” underwater. New for 2020 - check out our Inertia Neoprene Spray Skirt.

BROWSE ALL DAGGER ACCESSORIES

Finally, we offer a variety of sizes in all our kayak categories to comfortably accommodate paddlers of all proportions. The best way to ensure the right fit is to schedule a demo with your local dealer.

View Chart

When choosing your right kayak, there are many factors to take into consideration. We recommend talking to your local Dagger dealer to help with this decision. Information provided here will help you understand our product line and steer you in the right direction.

STEP ONE – PADDLING STYLE

Where do you want to kayak and what will you be doing?. Each category has the right combination of size options, outfitting, storage, and performance features for the intended uses outlined below.

View chart

STEP TWO – PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTICS

Once you’ve gotten a general idea of your paddling style, you are able to narrow it down more precisely by understanding the performance characteristics that are typical for each category. Below is a chart of how each performs relative to the other categories in each characteristic.

View Chart

Definitions

• Stability – general capability of boat’s resistance to tipping over under normal conditions
• Manageability – refers to ease of carrying, car topping, and storing the kayak when outside of the water
• Speed and Glide – boat’s efficiency moving through the water and potential for higher velocity.
• Tracking – boat’s ability to stay in a straight line.
• Maneuverability – boat’s ability to turn precisely.

STEP THREE – FEATURES AND OUTFITTING

Once you’ve decided on a kayak model or two that fits your needs, looking at the features and outfitting can help in making your decision.

• Cockpit – Cockpit outfitting is key to finding the best fit for comfort, safety, and control. Look for inclusion of a thigh brace or backrest, and adjustability if you will be doing longer trips or kayaking rough conditions. Pay attention to cockpit size to ensure it fits your body type.
• Hatches and Bulkhead – Located at either end of the boat, the hatch is the opening to store gear and the bulkhead is the vertical wall that seals the compartment. Also a great safety feature providing buoyancy to the boat.
• Deck Rigging – Deck lines, bungies, and toggles add safety in convince for certain types of paddling. A spare paddle, compass, navigational charts, and other items can be readily available on deck.
• Rudder – A mechanical device at the stern of the boat that is foot controlled and can aid in both steering and tracking.
• Drop-Skeg – Mechanical device at the stern of the boat that can be deployed or retracted by hand. Aids in tracking, but not steering.

Finally, we offer a variety of sizes in all of our kayak categories to comfortably accommodate paddlers of all proportions. The best way to ensure the right fit is to schedule a demo with your local dealer.

REPOSTED FROM THE DAGGER BLOG, WRITTEN BY CHRISTIE GLISSMEYER

It can be very frustrating when you are out on a wave or in a hole and you are sliding around or falling out of your playboat every time you throw a move. On the other hand, if your outfitting is too tight you won't be able to stay in your boat for more than a few rides. Outfitting a new boat can be a drag sometimes but here are a few ideas to get started:

Moving the seat as far forward as possible is helpful if you are having any problems with bow initiations. The backband should be snug to give you lower back support. Hip pads should be snug but not too tight.

If you are a smaller person, it helps to glue 1/2-1 inch of foam on the seat and where the kneecaps rest in the knee braces. Not only is the extra padding more comfortable, but by sitting higher your knees can rest better in the knee's braces, your elbows clear the cockpit, and you will have more leverage.

I cut one square foam block and glued it in the bow for my heels to push off off of. I've found that if my toes danging free it helps to keep my feet from cramping up or falling asleep.

Triangle foam blocks glued to the underside of the knee will also ensure that your knees won't fall out of the knee braces while you are doing inverted tricks or rolling.

The glue I like to use is 3M spray contact cement (found at hardware stores) because it dries in just about 15 min. Just make sure you get the non-water-soluble kind in the green can. Spray both surfaces you want to bond, let sit for about 5 minutes and then stick together.

REPOSTED FROM THE DAGGER BLOG, WRITTEN BY CHRIS GRAGTMANS

The past two years of extreme kayaking have been absolutely crazy to witness. From Tyler Bradt running 186 foot Palouse Falls, to a ridiculous season this year in Chile, to some serious progression on the Oregon and Cali fronts, the sport of kayaking has been pushed by a lot of people. The simple fact is that more people than ever before are running gigantic waterfalls.

One of the keys to stepping up your game on the big drops is having a plan B. One of the most important things that any creekboater should learn is how to brace for a dangerous flat impact. This can occur from a bad bounce on a slide or from landing flat in green water off of drops that are above a certain height. People have broken their backs on 20 footers… you need to be careful.

When all else fails, the technique that I would recommend is referred to as Hinge Theory within my circle of friends, although I am not sure if that is a commonplace term elsewhere. Basically, you need to think of your back as a giant hinge. If you sit up straight and fall like a sitting duck, your lower vertebrae can compress and/or fracture. The idea is to lean far forward instead, so that you slam your body (and sometimes nose, unfortunately) against your boat. Your back therefore pivots like a hinge and doesn’t break. Surf on down the Dagger blog for Pat Keller's first D of Linville Falls, where he put this technique to good use.

There are two types of hinges that I use on a regular basis:

Hinge #1 - General Purpose Brace for Impact

1. Place paddle on or very close to your deck between your knees and stomach
2. Flick elbows high
3. Lean aggressively forward
4. Bow your head with respect to the river

*This one is great for drops with flat rock landings. Combine with a dropped bow to glance off flat rocks. Learn this if you ever paddle the Horsepasture in NC*

Hinge #2 - Sheer and Utter Panic

1. Punch paddle and both hands straight out forward
2. Lean forward as far as you can
3. Bow your head
4. This one may very well sacrifice your nose, but that heals faster than your back.

There is one very important thing to note here. The hinge needs to pivot from the bottom of your spine and your hips, rather than just slouching and rolling your back. Keep your back as straight as possible. See the images below.

Slouching - Don't do it!

REPOSTED FROM THE DAGGER BLOG, WRITTEN BY ANDREW HOLCOMBE

With spring right around the corner here in the southeast and rain in the forecast I thought I’d share a bit about outfitting your Dagger kayak. The great thing about Dagger’s outfitting is that it strikes a nice balance of being functional but still very easy to adjust and set up. To outfit my new boat in its entirety usually takes me between 10-20 minutes and then I have a boat that’s fully customized to me. We’ll take this in stages starting with:

SEAT

Dagger makes two types of seats. The first is the play seat which comes in the Agent, Axiom, and Mamba (unless your special order the creek seat in the Mamba). This seat is very easy to adjust, simply unscrew the yellow wingnuts at the front and back of the seat, lift, and the seat will slide forward and back (remember to screw the wingnuts back on).

If you are unsure of where to put your seat start in the middle and then adjust from there as you paddle your kayak. Don’t be afraid to change your seat position around, sometimes it takes a bit to find the best one for you. Also, in your outfitting kit you’ll notice a plastic wedge with a bolt coming out the top. This is a seat raiser, used to help hold your legs into the thigh braces. To use it just lift the front of the seat up and slide it under the bottom, remembering to screw the yellow wingnut back onto the bolt.

I highly recommend trying this, it provides better control and comfort.

The creek seat, due to its sturdiness, takes just a bit more time to move. For this reason, I usually paddle my Nomad or Mamba a bit before moving to the seat (in other words make sure you need to before you do it). First you want to completely unscrew the bolt that connects the front of the seat to the center pillar (take care not to lose it in the center wall cavity).

Second loosen but do not completely unscrew the bolts on the sides of the cockpit (these connect the seat to the boat).

Before moving the seat knock the bolts back down flush with the boat by hitting the top of your screwdriver with your palm.

Move the seat to the desired location, keeping in mind to line the front of the seat up with the pre-existing recessed nuts. Retighten and bolt everything.

BACKBAND

Start by unbuckling the straps that attach the back of the backband to the cockpit to allow full movement while adjusting.

Next position the rachet system so that it’s near but not at the front of the teeth. Now reach behind the backband and pull on the plastic tabs on either side.

This will move the backband forward, stopping when the backband is centered over the back of the seat.

At this point you can re-buckle the straps that attach the backband to the back of the cockpit. You don’t need to make these super tight, allow a little slack. Now sit in your boat and use the ratchets to move the backband forward into a comfortable position. You want the ratchet to be about halfway down the teeth when you have the backband where you want it.

If it's too far forward or back adjusted on the back of the backband accordingly. All set, to get out just release the ratchets.

At this point you no longer must use the adjustment behind the seat, you can get all the movement you need from the ratchets.

Now pull the hippad off of the Velcro and add foam shims to the pocket on the back until you reach the desired thickness.

Re-Velcro and pull the attachment strap tight. One note, as you re-Velcro make sure that you locate the hip pads high enough so that the bump on the front is on top of your thigh and in front of your hip. This will help keep your legs from falling asleep.

Reposted from the Dagger blog, written by Laura Farrell

** These maneuvers are mostly applicable to whitewater kayaks

Ok, so you just bought a kayak, but now you’re wondering how you’re going to get it home on your car. Or maybe you’ve figured out how to carry one boat, but now you’re headed to the river with four of your friends and you have to carry their boats too. The process of loading boats onto a vehicle can be a bit overwhelming at times, especially the first time you try to carry a load you’re not used to. For those people that fall into this category, I have laid out the best and most common ways to carry a boat on your car, as well as some tips of the trade to help you out.

However, before we get started, you need to understand the different pieces of equipment that are either necessary or very helpful to the process…

THE RACK

This could be a factory rack, or a rack that is mounted to your vehicle either onto your pre-existing factory rack or another part of your vehicle.

THE TIE-DOWN MECHANISM

This could either be a cam strap or a piece of rope (or in some cases maybe it’s a throw bag). If you choose to use rope, you will need to learn how to tie a trucker’s hitch knot. Some techniques only require one piece while others require two.

THE STACKER

While by no means completely necessary, this piece of equipment allows for much easier loading and a larger carrying capacity in most cases. If you don’t know what a stacker is, check out Yakima Stackers for a full description. Because not everyone has stackers, I will share techniques for carrying boats both with or without them.

Ok so now you’re ready to load some boats. Check out the various formations shown below. I have tried to show an array of options, both with a factory rack or a custom rack, a rope or a strap or a stacker or not.

THE ONE BOAT LOAD, HULL DOWN

If you only have one boat you need to carry and you have one strap or rope available; This technique is used a lot because its quick and easy, but the downside is that the boat lying on the crossbars can cause oil canning if left in this position for long, especially if it's hot out. Two boats can also be tied side by side in this manner if your crossbars are wide enough.

1. Get your rope or cam set up by laying it out on the roof of the vehicle in the center, parallel to the vehicle, under both crossbars
2. Lay the kayak flat on the crossbars (hull down) on one side of the bars.
3. Bring both ends of the cam up and around the kayak (it is best you can thread at least one of these through a security bar on the kayak)
4. Set the strap so the cam buckle sits around the top of the kayak (which should mean that your non-buckle side has more length to it)
5. Bring the non-buckle part of the strap under the crossbars and thread it through the buckle and tighten

THE STANDARD STACKER STACK

If you have stackers, two ropes or straps and want to carry 1-5 boats; This technique can be used with either factory racks or custom racks, but keep in mind, the longer the crossbar the more boats you can carry.

1. Get your straps set around each of your stackers first (it will be easier this way)
2. Load your first boat with the hull against the stackers
3. Load the rest of your boats against the first boat (in most cases it is best if you also alternate bow forward to stern forward, a technique generally referred to as the 69).
4. When you’ve loaded all your boats, bring both sides of the straps or ropes around the boats, hook one end under your rack and bring it to the other end.
5. If you’re using rope, tie a truckers hitch now. If you’re using cam straps, bring the end through the cam and crank it down tight.

THE ONE BOAT LOAD, COCKPIT DOWN

If you are worried about oil canning your boat, use this technique instead of the hull down version; This is also a good technique if you think it might rain and you don’t want your kayak to fill up with water. The only downside to this technique is that the security bars are not accessible, so you need to make sure the boat is very secure. While it can be done with only one strap, two is better for extra security (to do this just set one strap under the front crossbar and the second under the back crossbar) It is done the same way as the one boat hull down technique shown above, but this time with the cockpit down as the name describes.

THE DOUBLE STACK (69 STYLE)

If you don’t have stackers, but have two ropes or straps, and want to carry 2-4 boats; This technique works more or less the same as the One Boat Load, but this time you will be stacking another boat on top, cockpit to cockpit, bow to stern. While possible with just one strap, it is much better to use two for extra security. This can also be done with two double stacks side by side if the crossbars are wide enough.

THE SIDE BY SIDE NO STACKER STACK

If you don’t have stackers and need to carry a lot of boats; This technique can be used for loading lots of boats when you have one of those friends who is too cheap to buy stackers; It is not overly difficult but does require the help of some fellow boats for balancing the load. Basically, you’re going to stand one boat on its side and use it like you would a stacker (attaching the ropes or cams around the rack, instead of the stacker). Because of the lack of stackers, someone is going to have to hold the boat up while the rest are being loaded (load the same as you would with the stacker method). Sometimes this technique also includes the Around the World variation, which involves sending the rope over and under the entire stack instead of looping it around the rack (the Around the World technique is used when you don’t have a strap or rope long enough to do it the normal way).

THE STACK ‘EM HIGH STACK

When you only have one shuttle vehicle, but lots of friends that need a ride! While not exactly recommended, you may see some crazy stacks out there when shuttle vehicles start running low. Anytime you stack on a stack, or decide to go crazy with your stacking, make sure you’re careful about securing the bow and the sterns well!

Below you will find some pictures of various loading techniques that I’ve been a part of in my paddling career, some more recommended than others! Don’t forget to add bow and/or stern lines to your loads for extra safety.

Reposted from the Dagger community site, written by Anna Levesque

The Iliopsoas is a hip flexor muscle group comprising of three muscles: The psoas minor, the psoas major and the iliacus. This group is one of the strongest of the hip flexor muscles and the psoas major runs from our lumbar spine across the hip joint to the upper inner thigh. Very important muscle! The interesting thing about these muscles, is that they actually need to be stretched to keep their normal tone. Otherwise they shorten and tighten easily which can cause back pain, hip pain and lead to poor posture. This is a very simplistic explanation of this important muscle group, but you get the point.

If people who don't kayak are susceptible to the shortening of the iliopsoas then you can image what can happen to kayakers! We sit with our hip flexors flexed for long periods of time and most of us rarely stretch out the front of our hips, but focus more on the hamstrings and back. So, it's especially important for us to focus on stretching this muscle group because we are especially susceptible to its shortening. Upward Frog pose is a great way to tone the Iliopsoas.

Yes, this is a strange looking pose, but I’ve found that kayakers really get a lot of benefit from it. My husband and Team Dagger paddler, Andrew Holcombe, now practices this pose almost everyday and it has really helped reduce his lower back and hip pain. Try it and see how it feels for you!

1. Lie on your back and bend your knees so that your shins are parallel to the floor, your thighs are at a right angle to your upper body and your feet are flexed. Keep your knees from rising up to your shoulders. In fact, you want to move your knees away from your upper body until you feel the stretch.
2. Allow your knees to fall apart and continue to fall apart with every exhalation. This stretch can feel very intense. When it gets intense bring your attention to your breath and notice the stories that your mind is telling you about how you just can't do it anymore. Try to just observe these thoughts and take two more breaths than you think you can. Once you release the pose hug your knees into your chest. Try to work up to holding this pose for 2 minutes at a time. And, you can even add some crunches to make it more interesting as long as you continue to focus on your breath. (What!? Crunches in Yoga?! Yes, they're good for us!)
3. For crunches try inhaling deeply, then exhale in three parts as you crunch up in three parts, reaching the top of your crunch at the bottom of your exhale. Then as you bring your upper body back down toward the mat inhale and lower on a three count so that you come down at the top of your exhale. Keep the movement slow and controlled. Lift your chest toward the ceiling and don't wrench on your neck as you lift up. If your knees start creeping up toward your armpits make sure to lower them away from your body so that you continue to get the stretch in the illiopsoas. Start with 5 crunches. Hug your knees into your chest when you're done.

This may not apply to certain older models, but generally, you should be able to determine the model year from the serial number. Typically, the number is scribed into the kayak...right side...close to the stern.

The last 4 digits of the series = date stamp.

For example, WKYABC12A909: (last 4 digits bolded for emphasis)
"A" (month) =... Jan.
"09" (model year) = 2009

Most, but not all boats, have a recessed area here. Your serial number will always be in this area.

REPOSTED FROM THE DAGGER BLOG, WRITTEN BY ANNA LEVESQUE

I have to say that I’m not a hardcore winter paddler, obviously, since I run winter trips in Mexico! So, I can relate to those of you who hang up the paddle for other, dryer, sports in the winter. However, I do know paddlers who still motivate even with snow on the ground and icicles hanging from the brims of their helmets. And I admit that when I do drag myself out when it’s 40 degrees or colder (what I consider cold weather paddling) I have a lot of fun. So, if you’re planning on getting out this winter or spring here are my top five must-have accessories for staying warm on the river.

1. Drysuit — not just any drysuit, but a really, really good quality drysuit! Trust me, it’s worth the money to invest in a drysuit that keeps you dry, especially if you’re going to do a lot of winter paddling. A good drysuit will totally transform your attitude toward paddling in the cold, at least it did mine. There’s nothing better than unzipping the suit at the end of the day with dry clothes underneath… especially a dry sports bra, socks and underwear! All your wet, cold friends sans drysuits will be very jealous! My personal recommendation: The Kokatat Meridian Gore-Tex drysuit as modeled by Emsky and I.
2. A fleece union suit. Yes, the fleece union/bunny suit is my newest favorite paddling accessory! I can’t believe that I only started wearing one this year. It makes you feel snug as a bug like a kid in pajamas. And, yes, it’s still easy to pee after you’ve got both your bunny suit and your drysuit on if you have relief zippers that match up. My preference is the back relief zipper for both. Some women have been skeptical in the past about the back relief zipper, but it doesn’t interfere with the seat of your kayak and is very comfortable. I don’t even notice it except when I need it! Kokatat makes awesome union suits to go with their awesome drysuits.
3. Poggies and/or gloves. Ahh, the feeling of not being able to unbuckle your helmet or lifejacket because your hands are too cold. I think this is my very least favorite part about winter paddling. I remember some years ago experimenting with dishwashing gloves under my poggies, a desperate move to try to keep my hands from freezing off! I have to say that I’m really happy that companies like Kokatat and Glacier Glove are now making comfortable neoprene gloves and poggies that keep my hands warm. I suggest wearing both gloves and poggies at the same time, especially if it’s a windy day.
4. Skull Cap. Since large amounts of heat escape quickly through the head it’s obvious why you want to have a skull cap for winter paddling. Look for one that fits snuggly and that has a chin strap, so it doesn’t move around.
5. Hot chocolate at the take-out. It’s a good feeling for thawing hands to hold a warm cup of hot chocolate once you’re changed into your regular clothes. And it takes me back to fond memories of my childhood winter days coming inside after playing in the snow for hours. You can always spike it with your favorite adult addition to make it more interesting and yummier :) So these are my top five winter paddling accessories. And, if you don’t consider yourself much of a winter paddler, I’ll add this sixth important accessory: A plane ticket to a warm paddling destination! Stay safe, stay warm and happy winter paddling!

Reposted from the Dagger blog, written by Iker Beristain

Throwing your paddle off a waterfall is not something you should just decide spontaneously, if you've decided you are going to throw it, you should know it before running.

This move has some pros and some contras:

PROS

Softer landings, less impact, less probabilities to heart your back (if done properly), it’s safer for your face (the paddle can be dangerous around it), and hands (hands take big impact by holding the paddle), you are not going to break your paddle, and it can be very stylish.

CONTRAS

Ones you lose your paddle it´s almost impossible to stop going oververt, not recommended if you don´t have a solid hand roll, if you´ve got caught by the hole of the waterfall you ´r gona have a bad time, you need a big pool (not recommended if there is a rapid or waterfall after the drop), you have less control of your boat in free fall.

Throwing the paddle is something you should have in mind since you are scouting, you must take a good look at that waterfall and see the exact point where you think your boat is going to be stable enough to get rid of your blade. There are different kinds of waterfalls, so there are different kinds of techniques.

Personally, I only throw my paddle when there is a big chance of boofing, or if the volume is not enough for the height.

1. You always have to do slow moves to keep the balance of the boat, only if you are going flat, or you know the drop is going to boof you lean forward as hard as possible to get that bow down and give some angle to the boat with the heaps.
2. Throw the paddle either to a side or up (keep it away from your face).
3. Always try to keep your weight on the front of the boat.
4. There are 2 ways for tugging, one is to lean forward and hug your boat, your helmet should be in contact with the boat, or if there is a chance to hit rock, just lean as forward as you can, like trying reach the end of the boat, always hide your face.
5. Ones at the bottom roll up and celebrate, because there is a big chance that your line looked sick.

I don’t think throwing the paddle is the best option to have a perfect line, and I only recommend it if it’s needed.

Written by Team Dagger Pro Andrew Holcombe

Hey, all hope everyone's summer has been good. It's been a fun one here in the southeast, a little on the hot side I suppose, but that's just a great excuse to get in the water! I'm going to talk about catching eddies; what I want to talk about is making it easy. No more almost making it but sliding out the back or struggling to cross the eddy line. Eddies can turn from your nemesis into your friend by following one easy concept: Let the eddy do the work! Often times we work way to hard to get into these things, I've found that if I follow the three straightforward tips below (also illustrated in the videos) those eddies are no longer such a challenge.

Step 1

Set your angle and paddle. Ideally you want to set your angle so that you are pointed downstream but into the eddy. Then you've got to paddle, you won't make it by just looking:)

Step 2

Hold that angle and speed all the way into the eddy. This is the letting the eddy do the work part. Oftentimes we are tempted to initiate our turn before we get into the eddy which causes our boat to slip or slide along the eddy line. If you drive your kayak all the way across the eddy line and let the slack water in the eddy begin to turn your boat your problems (well most of them) will be solved.

Step 3

Paddle through that turn. Once the eddy water begins to turn you it's important to remember to keep paddling, this provides speed around your corner which also helps stop that sliding feeling. If you paddle on the inside of your turn, it will make your eddy turn silky smooth. Tip: Try using a wide stroke like a stern draw or sweep for large eddies or turbulent eddylines, this will put you deeper in the eddy. Try a more vertical stroke like a bow draw or even a regular forward stroke for those small eddies. Remember these strokes are placed in the eddy not the current.

By Andrew Holcombe

Whether you're out to win or just set a personal best these races are fun to participate in and all three present different challenges. Over the past couple of years one of the best methods of preparing for these races that I've discovered has been attainments or as I like to refer to it 'the art of padding upstream':) However attainments are not just for those who are race training. They also are a great way to get in that workout and are great for improving your overall paddling. So whether you're looking to take 10 seconds off last years time or just looking for another way to stay in shape here are a couple of things I've found that have helped me the past couple of years.

First off, choose your kayak. I've found that its not much fun to do attainments in a shorter boat. It makes it super hard and kind of demoralizing:) If you can't get ahold of a newer long boat, like the Greenboat, go and dig an older kayak out of someone's garage. You're looking for something that can carry some speed.

Second,choose your section of river. While its really fun sometimes to try hard attainments over and over again without making it (then when you do make you get an awesome sense of satisfaction) I don't think that's actually the best thing for improving speed. My ideal section of river is one that offers resistance but that I can keep moving through. Helpful hint: Make sure that its deep enough. There's nothing more frustrating than constantly slamming your paddle on rocks when you're really giving it.

Third,choose a good length. Same as above. You want to be able to paddle the entire section without stopping, then rest on the float back down. You can change the length depending on what you want to do. Shorter with harder paddling for building that acceleration. Longer distance for better endurance.

Fourth, give yourself time. Attainments don't work right away. So if all the sudden you realize its a week before the race you can go do some but don't expect it to make you faster. Put in the time before hand and you will be super impressed with the results.

Fifth, keep the pace. Keep moving all the way through the workout. I like to rest on the float back down (rather than sprinting) and start my next attainment immediately. Some folks sprint back down and then rest in the eddy. Either way rest a set amount of time and start the next one.

Sixth, set a number. When I'm in fully swing I paddle between 30-45 minutes (counting resting). It's important to work up gradually so you don't over do it but you also want to make sure you're putting in the time. In other words heading out and doing two attainments all the time isn't going to cut it.

Seventh, keep it as fun as you can. I like to this for all my workouts, so they don't feel so much like a workout:) Try different routes, try it backwards, or at the very least pick a scenic section of river:) basically anything to break it up a little so you don't do the same thing over and over.

Blade

The Broad Part at the end of a paddle.

Bow

The forward end of a canoe or kayak.

Hull

The bottom shape of a boat, which determines how it will perform in various conditions. Canoes have a hull only, kayaks have a hull on the bottom and a deck on the top.

Portage

To carry a kayak over land (or the trail you carry it over) to get from one waterway to another or avoid a rapid.

PFD

Personal flotation device, or lifejacket. In the U.S., PFDs must be approved by the Coast Guard. Wear it!

Shaft

The long skinny part of a kayak paddle.

Stern

The rear end of a canoe or kayak.

Swamp

To fill (a boat) with water.

Trim

The bow-to-stern leveling of a canoe or kayak that affects boat control. In most cases it should be nearly level, with the stern slightly lower in the water.

KAYAKING TERMS

Back band (back rest)

Provides support for the lower back while kayaking and helps with erect posture in the boat. Located behind the seat and usually made of padded fabric, plastic, or foam.

Bulkhead

A cross-sectional wall inside a kayak, made of composite, plastic, or foam. Bulkheads provide structural support and cross-sectional bulkheads create watertight compartments for buoyancy and storage.

Cockpit

The enclosed central compartment of a kayak, in which the paddler sits.

Deck

The top part of a kayak that keeps the hull from filling with water.

Footpegs/bulkhead

(also known as foot braces) Adjustable structures inside the cockpit on which a kayaker places the balls of her feet.

Roll

The technique of righting a capsized kayak while still inside.

Sit-on-top (SOT)

A kayak without a cockpit, sit-on-tops are usually self-bailing with various seat and foot brace configurations. Many are for recreational use, but some are designed for touring and racing.

Spray skirt

A neoprene or nylon skirt worn by a kayaker that attaches to the rim (coaming) of the cockpit to keep water out.

Thigh (knee) braces

Usually found in whitewater and touring kayaks. These structures inside the cockpit give the paddler important points of contact for boat control.

Wet exit

Coming out of a capsized kayak.

Reposted from the Dagger blog, written by Anna Levesque

Eddy turns and peel outs are essential skills for whitewater kayaking. Catching eddies allows us more control because we can stop, scout, take a break and regroup. Peeling out of eddies allows us to re-enter the current in control and gives us time to set up for our next move. The key component to eddy turns and peel outs are:

1. Angle = 45 degrees relative to the downstream current or current inside the eddy. When we have the right angle, we expose just the right amount of our kayak to the current which, in turn, does the work of turning our kayak for us so we don't have to.
2. Edge = Lifting our upstream edge when we're peeling out and lifting our downstream edge when we're performing an eddy turn. Lifting the correct edge allows the water to hit the bottom or our boat so that we don't flip while performing this skill and allows the current to turn out boat.
3. Speed = Taking good, strong strokes to gain some momentum, but not paddling so hard that you blow your angle and edge...
4. Look where you want to go. Self-explanatory!

As a kayak instructor I drill people on these skills on the water all the time. Practicing them helps to create better reading water skills, balance, effortlessness and control. Plus, good eddy turns and peel outs are a lot of fun! Almost anyone can paddle straight down a class II and III river, but they're missing out on a lot of fun and are not learning to paddle to their potential. Beginners often resist eddy and ferry practice because it can feel unstable and challenging, but if they stick with it, the benefits are awesome.

Interestingly enough I've realized that the components of eddy turns and peels are just as relevant off the water as they are on the water. Take the peel out for example... We've all experienced times in our lives when we've felt stuck. Perhaps we feel uninspired or maybe we've been repeating habits and patterns that make us unhappy. In these times remembering the elements of a good peel out can help us get
unstuck.

1. Set your angle = Pay attention and set your intention. Ask yourself: "What do I want to look different in my life?" Allow yourself some quiet time so that the answer bubbles up from inside of you. You know what's best for you so trust yourself and set the intention that you want for your life, or for this year or this month or just for today. It can be as simple as: "Today my intention is to find 3 things to be grateful for."
2. Find your Edge = Find your balance. Take time out in your day to find your center, your balance point. Sit quietly or go for a walk or bike ride or paddle! Instead of constantly sending your energy out to everyone else, save some for yourself. You can only take care of others if you take care of yourself first. Going a step further, you can find your balance on edge -- don't be afraid to challenge yourself, to push your limits just a little. Step outside of your comfort zone and hang out there for a bit and you'll find that what you were so afraid of isn't so bad after all.
3. Speed = Start moving and move in a different way, in a different direction. If you're on the river and you get stuck in an eddy you don't say to yourself: "Oh, I'm stuck, I guess I'll just have to stay here all day." If you said that you would never get off the river! Somehow you find the courage, strength and determination to paddle out of that eddy back into the current. You may not be sure of how you'll end up at the bottom of the rapid, but you take initiative, and you go for it. Same thing when you feel stuck in life. Big projects start with one little baby step, and then another and then another.... You don't have to paddle like crazy, just start taking some strokes and the momentum will build on itself.
4. Look where you want to go = It's important that when you have a goal that you're reaching for that you don't sabotage yourself by telling yourself stories about how you can't do it. I love the quote that says something like: "Whether you believe you can or you can't you're probably right." Keep your focus on where you want to go, on what you want to create in your life. When you hear yourself starting to doubt, coming up with excuses or being negative you can simply say: "That isn't true for me anymore." This is a very powerful statement! Just because something went one way in the past doesn't mean that it has to repeat itself. We all have the power to choose where our attention is focused. Using affirmations can help with this. Find an affirmation that is believable to you and say it over and over. Stick it on the fridge or somewhere you can see it. It can be as simple as: "Everything I do I do with ease." Keep it simple and keep looking where you want to go.

Eddy turns can be important too. Maybe you need to catch an eddy to take a break, rejuvenate and find your balance. Stopping to take stock of what's going on in your life is important.

1. As I mentioned, I drill my students on the water on this stuff and it take some practice to refine peel outs and eddy turns so that they feel effortless. If I had given up on kayaking after my first trip down the river because I couldn't eddy turn or peel out or stay upright I wouldn't be where I am or who I am today. On the river I'm sure that you get out there and practice as much as you can, even if you don't feel like you're getting it right all of the time. The same thing goes when applying this stuff to life. Don't give up the first time that something doesn't work out the way you want it to. Keep going back to the basic steps mentioned above and recognize the lesson. Being open to the learning will help you do it differently next time. With practice peel outs and eddy turns become effortless both on and off the water.

This "dip" in the hull is common and natural in many of our whitewater and touring kayaks. It also occurs with age, as boat hulls tend to wear in the seat area. This area under the seat is no less strong than the rest of the boat, but it is less rigid due to the large, flat area. Therefore it can buckle due to temperature fluctuations, pressure from tie down straps, storage conditions, etc. This should not be considered a problem unless you notice an extremely soft or spongy feeling when pressing on this area. The same is also true of dents in the side or chine of the kayak. These are often noticed after the boat is removed from vertical transport on a roof rack. The solution is to set the boat in the direct sun for a couple of hours (preferably in a grassy yard, not on pavement) with the dented area exposed. When the hull heats up it usually reforms itself. You may have to get creative with some weights or braces inside the boat to push the dents back out. This process should be allowed to proceed for at least two hours. In the absence of sun or in the cooler months one foolproof way to not damage your boat and remove a dent is to use water that has been brought to the point of boiling. This will heat the plastic to a soft state without burning or melting it and allow you to push the dent out.

Reposted from the Dagger blog, written by Anna Levesque

Crossing the current without being taken downstream is a very important skill in white water kayaking. Ferries help to slow things down and they develop boat control, balance and edge control. Throughout your paddling career you’ll probably see many rapids in which making a ferry to an eddy on the other side of the river is a necessary move and you’ll be glad that you put a lot of time into practicing this basic river running skill.

There are four key words to remember about performing a precise and effortless ferry. And, yes, if you’re doing it right it will feel effortless. The idea is to allow the current to do most of the work. The key words are angle, edge, vision and speed.

Angle refers to the angle of your kayak relative to the current. For a successful ferry this angle needs to be about 45 degrees to the current. Another way to visualize the angle is to imagine a clock superimposed over the current with twelve o’clock being upstream and six o’clock being downstream. The bow of your kayak will want to be angled toward 10:30 or 11 o’clock if you’re moving from right to left and toward 1:30 or 2 o’clock if you’re moving from left to right.

Not only do you want to set your angle before you proceed into the current, but the idea with the ferry is that you maintain the angle all the way across the current. If you take the time to set your angle properly from the beginning, maintaining it will be easier. To help you do this it’s best to position yourself close to the eddy line. If you try to set your angle sitting way back in the eddy, by the time you paddle up to the current you’ll already have lost your angle. It’s much easier to maintain your angle if you don’t have to paddle as far.

The other tip for helping you set and maintain your angle is to pay attention to your paddle strokes. You only need a few good, powerful strokes to break across the eddy line so don’t feel like you need a ton of speed. Taking fewer strokes also allows you to focus on your last stroke as you enter the current. If you take a stroke on your upstream side as you’re entering the current you’ll start turning your kayak and will loose your angle immediately. If you take the stroke on your downstream side you’ll be more likely to maintain your angle.

Once you’re in the current the water will start pushing on your bow and will want to turn you downstream. To counteract this you’ll want to use stern draws on your downstream side. Make sure that you practice correct stern draw technique so that you feel comfortable performing the stroke with a very strong torso rotation. If you do the stroke correctly you’ll only need two or three compared to six or seven bad ones.

Edge refers to lifting and maintaining your upstream edge as you ferry across. This keeps the majority of the edge of your boat out of the water so that you stay upright. The surface of your kayak that is exposed to the current allows the water to push your kayak across.

If you lift your edge at the beginning of your ferry and then set it down half way through you’ll end up flipping over or turning downstream. It’s important that you maintain that edge all the way over.

Vision refers to looking where you want to go. Once you’ve set your angle and you’re making your move into the current it’s important to look at where you want to go. This will actually help you keep your boat angle because you’ll see the big picture of what the current is doing. If you stare at your bow or at the current right in front of your bow you loose track of your angle and positioning relative to the rest of the current and it’s more difficult to perform an effortless ferry. So, make sure that you look where you want to go from the beginning all the way to the end of your ferry.

Speed refers to how much momentum you have crossing into the current. As I’ve already mentioned when discussing angle, it’s not necessary to have a crazy amount of speed when you’re learning. It’ll serve you better to focus on your angle and edge more than speed. Now, that doesn’t mean that you can float across the eddy line. You still want to paddle, but no so much that you forget about everything else.

Make sure that you switch edges once you get to the eddy or flatwater on the other side of the current you’re ferrying across. This will keep you stable.

As you progress as a paddler you’ll learn that you can relax your ferry angle for easy going current. You’ll also learn to read the water and notice that the current is not uniform and the current right next to the eddy you’re starting your ferry from may be stronger or weaker than the current out in the middle. This means that you may have to adjust your angle halfway through your ferry. These subtleties will become more apparent with more experience and instruction. No matter what, if you’re struggling remember to come back to the basic principles of angle, edge, vision and speed.

More intermediate paddlers will want to practice taking the least amount of strokes possible while ferrying to improve their technique and their finesse. You can also practice keeping your blade in the water in the position of the stern draw with your wrists feathered up so that you maintain pressure on the current. This will help you maintain your angle in a more fluid way.

Practicing back ferries is also important for intermediate paddlers who need a challenge. This adds a whole new dimension to boat control, edge control and balance. Most paddlers avoid this practice, but if you really want to improve your intermediate skills this is a great way to do it.

If you’re getting turned downstream immediately and are having a hard time keeping your angle, focus on taking the time to set your angle properly. Make sure that you understand the angle. If you enter perpendicular to the current or at a three o’clock angle you’ll get turned downstream. If you end up facing straight upstream and getting turned back toward your starting point then you’re starting out with too much angle or correcting too much. Remember that when you do a proper ferry it looks and feels like your gliding across the current. This may take some time, but the more you practice the easier it will become.

This article is excerpted from Anna’s latest whitewater kayaking instructional DVD for women. Look for the new DVD in stores and online in spring of 2010.

HOW-TO BLOG WRITTEN BY TEAM DAGGER'S TODD WELLS

I think it's safe to say that no one likes a leaky kayak. I especially don't like a leaky kayak, so I decided to take note on a few of the things I do to keep my kayak and everything inside it extra dry.

First and foremost I make sure to tighten the screws on my kayak on a regular basis (every few weeks for myself). When we paddle our kayaks we put stress on each of the joints where pieces of outfitting (i.e. seat, thigh braces, bulkhead) meet with the plastic shell of the kayak. Over time this stress will slowly loosen the screws, and to keep our boats dry we must re-tighten those screws. To do this you will need a large Philips screwdriver as well as a 7/16" wrench, or adjusting crescent wrench. Most of the screws you can simply tighten with your screwdriver. However, for the screws that hold your bulkhead in place (only in boats with an adjustable bulkhead) and for the screw at the front of your cockpit (in select boats) you will need to use your 7/16" wrench to hold the nut inside the boat in place while you tighten the screw from the outside of the boat. This is one of the most basic yet effective ways to keep water from entering your boat.

Secondly I make sure that my gear (i.e. drysuit, drytop, sprayskirt) doesn't have any holes or leaks. Even the smallest hole or abused seam in your gear can bring much water into your boat. Making sure to use a drytop or drysuit with a tunnel for your sprayskirt is very important as it also keeps lots of water out of your boat. I have also found that using newer gear keeps a lot of water from entering my boat and that older gear will leak not only through stressed seams, but also straight through the fabric.

My last recommendation for keeping water out of your kayak involves a little more time and attention, but has proven to keep my kayak completely dry. What I do in this process is apply aquaseal to each of the holes in the plastic where a screw is drilled through to hold a piece of outfitting in place.

Here are my step-by-step instructions for this process:

FIND THE PROPER TOOLS FOR THE JOB.

You'll need a 7/16" wrench (or adjusting crescent wrench), large Philips screwdriver, tube of aquaseal, and an unfolded paperclip to spread the aquaseal.

UNSCREW THE SCREWS.

You will need to unscrew all of the screws that are in contact with water when you're paddling. This includes all the screws around the outside of your cockpit rim and the screws that hold in your bulkhead. You don't have to worry about the screws that secure your grab handles because the plastic shell is molded for those screws and there are no holes in those locations.

FINAL PREPARATIONS.

Next you will have to prep the screws before applying the aquaseal. To do this first position the washer on the screw between the screw head and the plastic. This will allow you to apply the aquaseal between both the plastic and the washer as well as the washer and the screw head for extra dryness. Also make sure that the locations where you will be applying the aquaseal are completely clean and dry for the tightest seal.

APPLY THE AQUASEAL.

Now you are ready to apply the aquaseal to the screws on your boat. Make sure to apply the aquaseal both above and below the washer so that there is no chance of water leaking. Using the paperclip to spread the aquaseal as close to the screw as possible also helps create a completely waterproof seal. I would recommend using a generous amount of aquaseal to cover as much of the screw as possible.

RE-TIGHTEN THE SCREWS.

Now, as the aquaseal is still wet, you're ready to re-tighten the screws. Use the screwdriver and 7/16" wrench (where needed) to tighten each of the screws on your kayak. As you're doing this the aquaseal will spread out. This is fine, but make sure that the aquaseal does not spread too far from the washer. If the aquaseal spreads more than 1/2" from the washer it will become more flimsy and more apt to un-seal in the future.

NOW SIT BACK AND LET THE AQUASEAL DRY.

You will need to leave your kayak in a dry area for 24 hours so that the aquaseal may cure. Once the aquaseal has cured you'll be ready to hit the river drier than ever.

The finished watertight seal should look something like this

Well I hope this has been helpful to those of you with leaky boats. And remember that, though this seal will keep your boat extra-dry, you will still have to tighten the screws on a regular basis to maintain the seal.

THE FOLLOWING CONCEPTS WILL HELP YOU DEVELOP GOOD FORM AS YOU TAKE TO THE WATER.

Sit up straight. Your mother was right. Posture is important- for balance, efficiency and safety. Imagine that the heaviest parts of your body-head, chest, abdomen, hips, and rear end – are blocks in a tower. Keep them evenly stacked for beginning techniques; it’s when they come out of alignment that the tower (and your boat) is more likely to topple. Staying loose in the hips allows the boat to rock under you.

Use the big muscles. Instead of bicycling your hands out and back with each stroke, keep arms relatively straight. Paddling with arms alone is inefficient and fatiguing. Your chest, back and stomach muscles are much sturdier, so they’re better suited for the task. Paddling slightly stiff-armed is a method for learning efficient strokes. It forces use of the larger muscles.

Be shoulder safe. Shoulder injuries are not uncommon in paddlesports. To protect your shoulders, keep your hands in front of your body. When placing a paddle blade behind you, turn to look at it, rotating your shoulders into a safe position.

Different strokes. An entire vocabulary of strokes exists for every direction a boat can travel. Take a class to learn them all properly. Until then, remember these rules:

Keep the paddle blade perpendicular to the desired direction of travel. Forward strokes run parallel to the boat’s centerline. To move sideways away from the bank or dock, put the blade in the water parallel to your boat and pull yourself over to the blade. This is called a draw stroke.

Steer at the ends. You’ll get more mechanical advantage from turning strokes by doing them close to the ends of your boat. Sweep strokes are great for turning, tracing broad arcs to and from the bow or stern.

Information on this page is provided through our partnership with American Canoe Association (ACA) by staff writer Becky Molina.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR SAFE AND COMFORTABLE BULKHEAD ADJUSTMENT

Adjust and tighten the seat and thigh braces to their desired location prior to bulkhead adjustment.
To ensure best fit, make sure you are wearing the footwear you plan to use when paddling.

Adjusting the length of the bulkhead:

1. Remove both yellow poly-knobs from the studs that hold the side rails in place.
   
2. Pull the side rails inward and off of the stud.
   
3. Sitting in the boat, slide the bulkhead forward or backward; The balls of your feet should be the only part of the foot in contact with the bulkhead. You should be able to plant them firmly as if you were standing on them. You will know you’ve found the correct position when flexing your toes forward (applying pressure to the balls of your feet) provides secure thigh brace engagement.

CAUTION: If you find your desired bulkhead position requires the use of any of the holes covered by the SAFETY WARNING STICKER, it is NECESSARY to utilize the foam shims (provided with your boat) to move the bulkhead back toward the bow of the boat. See step 2 for details.

1. Once you have found your desired bulkhead position, its time to account for the foam that you will be adding. This foam is provided for both comfort and safety. If possible, we recommend using all 6 pieces of foam. More is better.

Your outfitting kit includes:  2 x 3” &  4 x ¾” foam spacers.

NOTE: As tempting as it might be, do not peel and stick the foam spacers yet!

Now it’s time to ask yourself an important question. “How much foam do I want to add to my bulkhead?” Not life changing but nevertheless, important.  Once you’ve selected the number of foam pads. Bulkhead adjustment is as follows.

Use your current hole as the start reference and move the bulkhead forward (toward the bow)…
One piece of foam = one hole. Two pieces = two holes. The three inch piece of foam = 3 holes. The rest is addition and subtraction.

1. Now that you’ve selected the number of pads and hole location that best suits you, its time to expand the bulkhead plates and rails to ensure a proper fit. This ensures maximum coverage of the bow cavity.
2. Using a # 2 Philips screwdriver LOOSEN BUT DO NOT REMOVE the 4 screws (2 per side) on the face of the bulkhead plates.
3. Now adjust your bulkhead in two directions (up and out) to ensure maximum coverage and safety. First, slide the side rails out (toward the side of the boat) as far as possible. Second, slide the plates up and out filling in the gaps above and to the side of the bulkhead.
4. When everything is fully expanded retighten the 4 screws.
5. Re-install the yellow Poly-Knobs onto the studs to secure the bulkhead in place.
6. Now that your bulkhead is adjusted, you finally get to peel the backing off your foam and apply your pre-determined number of foam pads to each side of the bulkhead. For the best adhesive bonding, this should be done in a warm, dry and clean environment. In other words, dropping your pads in the mud = poor adhesion.
7. Referencing the image below… This is the right bulkhead pad. Make sure yours matches this orientation. The left is the mirror image. The adhesive backing is on the other side.
8. Peel the backing off the foam, carefully reach down inside the boat and press it onto the bulkhead. The pads should stick to the bulkhead. If they stick to your hand, you’ve somehow managed to put them on the wrong side.
9. Sit in the boat and firmly press onto the foam using your feet to ensure a good bond.

PRO TIP:   To make a more shock absorbent bulkhead use a 1” hole saw to bore out the  3” pieces of foam making it look like Swiss cheese.  Place one of the 3/4” pieces of foam over the hole side to prevent dirt collecting in these holes.  This “Crush Bulk-head” can potentially reduce the amount of abuse your legs and ankles will receive in the event of a piton.

Although it is unlikely that your Dagger kayak will need repair during its lifetime, it is possible that a hull crack or puncture might occur due to extreme impact or contact with a sharp object. If this happens, first contact Dagger or your Dagger dealer to determine if the damage falls under the boat's warranty. We will need the serial number of your kayak (located on the stern), a good description of the damage (a photograph is very helpful), and a description of the incident during which the damage occurred. All this information will help us to determine the best course of action in getting you back on the water. As an owner of a boat made from polyethylene plastic, one repair option which may be available to you is welding. Polyethylene is recyclable and repairable, unlike many other plastics.

ROTOMOLDED KAYAK CARE

Our “roto” kayaks are made of high-density linear polyethylene, which is virtually maintenance free. A minimal amount of care in storage and transporting will help the kayak maintain a like-new condition for many years.

Polyethylene will become more flexible when in warm conditions such as a hot, sunny day. It is possible for a kayak strapped tightly to a roof rack for a series of days to temporarily deform at the weight bearing points. Use a rigid bar sport rack in addition to a “kayak cradle” to disperse the weight.

CLEANING

Usually, a quick rinse of fresh water is all that is necessary to keep your hull clean and functioning in good order. This is very important after paddling in salt water, especially if your boat is outfitted with a rudder system. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the rudder, rudder cables, and footbraces with fresh water to remove salt residue. Superficial scratches may occur, but can be removed or reduced by use of a marine boat polish designed for polyethylene hulls. Sanding or use of an abrasive rubbing compound is not recommended. To keep your kayak shining and minimize the long-term degradation caused by UV exposure, use an ultraviolet protectant such as 303 Aerospace Protectant, available at your local Wilderness Systems dealer.

WARNING

Avoid dragging kayak across the ground to prolong its life and maintain its look and performance. Two people, utilizing the carrying handles, is the best way to transport the boat. Alternately, you can transport using a kayak cart, available at your dealer.

Reposted from the Dagger blog, written by Scott Ligare

First of all a word of caution needs to be expressed. This system is for carrying your boat on flat land only! Serious danger could result in a fall down a steep slope with the boat attached to you back.

This system is ideal to rig up if you come to an unexpected locked gate a mile or two from the river or anytime you need to carry your boat down or up a long road. I came up with this system in Nepal after having problems with porters two days from our put-in.

1. Thread a 9 ft or longer cam strap through both tie downs on each side behind the seat.
2. Thread the strap down to a metal grab loop behind the seat. (This will be a shoulder strap)
3. Thread the strap to the other grab loop behind the seat. (This will be a waist strap)
4. Bring the strap back up to the cam near the seat. (This is your second shoulder strap.
5. Lean the boat up against a car or a tree so the boat is vertical bow up. Step through the loop between the metal grab loops and slip your arms through the shoulder straps.
6. Lean forward and stand up. Most likely you will have to adjust the length of the strap with the cam by resting the weight of the boat on the stern on a rock. You want it tight enough that you have significant weight on your waist.

With some modifications this system is the best system to carry your Nomad or Mamba for a long distance. Padding can be added to both shoulder and waist straps by getting pool “noodles” (the long, hollow, foam tubes made for floating in a swimming pool) and threading the straps through them. Another good idea is to have a separate waist strap, which allows you to take the system on and off easier. By using the seat and grab loops as attach points you can use back pack straps or whatever, get creative.

Clean your polyethylene kayak with mild soap and water. Use 303 Protectant or a similar plastic protectant to guard against UV rays and to help your boat shine. 303 also works great on Dagger Royalex canoes. For composite boats, you should apply a car wax that is recommended for fiberglass from time to time to protect the finish.

How do I adjust my whitewater kayak outfitting?

If you need some tips on getting into your whitewater kayak and making adjustments for the first time, check out our tutorial video quick start guides by clicking here.

Your gear carries you out and home, protects you from the elements and assists you in emergencies. All of it should be in good condition and fit your body, skill level and setting. Putting a child in an adult PFD isn’t a smart idea, for example, nor is using that leaky, beater kayak you borrowed at the last minute from your sister’s boyfriend. Make sure the gear is right before your start because once out on the water, it may be too late.

THE MUST HAVES

Don’t launch unless you have these items.

A Personal Flotation Device.

It’s widely held that humans have difficulty breathing underwater. Be sure your PFD fits, and wear it properly and religiously. The overwhelming majority of serious accidents (deaths and close calls) in paddlesports occur when paddlers are not wearing a Coast Guard-approved PFD.

A Paddle.

Though the boat may seem the most elemental piece of equipment, it’s the paddle that connects your muscle motor to the water. Consider these features:

Design. Different paddles are made for each discipline of paddlesport. The best one for a lazy family river trip may not handle a long-distance run.

Length. Kayak paddles are usually measured in centimeters, with touring ones longer than those for whitewater. Your boat width affects paddle size, too.

Blade size. The bigger the blade, the more work you’ll do with each stroke. Racers use low surface-area blades so they can stroke at a high rate of repetition without stress injury. Larger blades are better suited to a slower cadence.

Material. Plastic and aluminum paddles are everywhere. They are inexpensive, durable and low-maintenance. Wood is prized for its beauty and warmth but can vary greatly in weight, strength, cost and symmetry, and requires upkeep. Fiberglass and carbon fiber make for pricey, stiff, and super-lightweight high-performance paddles.

A Buddy.

Beginning kayakers should never paddle alone. There’s safety in numbers, especially when someone needs to go for help in an emergency.

Information on this page is provided through our partnership with American Canoe Association (ACA) by staff writer Becky Molina.

Dagger has spent a considerable amount of its research and development time towards making your kayak as comfortable as possible. Still, there are a number of options available to you which can further enhance comfort and performance according to your specific needs. All Dagger boats will come well equipped and ready to paddle, but in most circumstances, paddlers will choose to increase their boats' performance through custom outfitting. The following are a few suggestions to increase the fit and performance of your Dagger boat.

Adhesives

In many circumstances, you won't have to glue anything to your boat. However, there are situations where a person prefers extra outfitting to achieve a proper fit or additional comfort. Most contact adhesives are compatible with polyethylene plastic, but make sure, and check to see whether it is waterproof.

Flotation

For any whitewater use, you should have flotation for your kayak or C-1. Flotation bags come in different sizes and styles depending on your needs and are made to match your boat's volume. Ask your local Dagger dealer which set of flotation bags is right for your boat.

Paddle

Whitewater kayak paddles range from 194 cm to about 208 cm in length. If you are just about 5 feet tall or a bit over, use a paddle in the lower range; naturally, taller people will want a longer paddle. Given variations in torso length, arm length, and boat width, it's a good idea to test different paddle lengths to determine your own personal preference.

Sprayskirt

Always paddle with a sprayskirt. The skirt will shed water and greatly facilitates rolling in case of a capsize. Whitewater sprayskirts have different sizes for the paddler's waist and for cockpit sizes. There are also different rands, or skirt edges. See your Dagger dealer for sprayskirt options.

K-1 & C-1 Custom Fit Kits

Although most Dagger boats fit better from the start, you may need to outfit your kayak or C-1 with extra padding to get more of a feel for catching those eddies or rolling. Most Fit Kits include hip bolsters and seat pads. Most of these items are also available individually through your local paddling shop.

Repost from Chase Nobles

The Chamber is a source of information and contacts, which helps my company get business. I would strongly recommend that all companies support the Chamber by becoming members, serving on committees and participating in its initiatives.” Steve Nail,  Repost from Chase Nobles

Step one to outfitting a new boat for me is the bulk head.  I'm sure this has been done quite a few times, but I'll give you my take specifically for the Nomad bulkhead.  I've played around with this system a bit with gymnastics floor foam in another boat, but the new 3 inch pieces dagger sends with the boat are perfect.  The idea is to have a solid layer, then a layer with lots of air pockets, and then another layer on top.  This will be firm but give a lot if you peton, saving your ankles.

First, gather all the supplies I need to finish this project:

1. Foam (comes with boat 2x3in pieces, 2x1/2in pieces)
2. Large knife, mine was a 8 inch chefs knife
3. Super 77 3M Spray Glue
4. Work Space with disposable cover (I just used my boat's wrapping)

Second, I start cutting 1inx1in squares out of the non-glued side of the 3in pieces of foam with the knife.  I cut these evenly spaced with about 1/2 inches in between each one. I find it easiest to just outline all the squares with a slit that doesn't go all the way through the piece of foam and then come back and pry the squares out.

On all the spaces in between the squares I made more slits just to give more air pockets.  This foam is really strong and rigid so the more air pockets the better.  After I cut all the slits I went around the sides of the foam piece and put slits that lead to all of the air pockets.  This will give somewhere for the air in the pockets to go if I peton hard enough.

Ideally the slits are thin enough that water can't get inside the piece of foam, but the air could be forced out if it was hit hard enough.  After I do that it's time to start gluing.   I lay everything out on the boat packaging, and prepare the pieces to be glued together.   First pieces I want to glue together are the 1/2 inch pieces on top of the 3in pieces covering all of the square holes.  I give a good coat on top of the 3 inch piece and a good coat on the already adhesive side of the 1/2 inch piece then wait about 30 seconds for the glue to get tacky.  Once the glue is nice and tacky I put the pieces together and set old textbooks on top of them and wait about 20 minutes for the glue to really dry.

Once the glue is decently dry I started taking the bulkhead out of the actual boat.  This can be a pain but with a little elbow grease getting it out doesn't take too long and only requires taking out two bolts.  The cockpit rim bolt has a nut on the bottom that if you have a 7/8th socket and an extension on your ratchet it's pretty easy.  Once I take out the bulk head I extend the adjustable panels all the way out because I'm short and apply glue to the bulk head and the adhesive side of the 3 inch pieces of foam.  I set the old textbooks on top and leave for a couple of hours to allow everything to dry.

At this point you are almost done, but there is one tricky part left getting the bulk head back in the boat.  You have to do it a specific tricky way or you'll never get it in.  The adjusters have to go in pointing into the stern behind the hip pad first and then the cut out groove in the middle of the bulk head has to kind of split the cockpit to get one panel in and then it's real obvious how it goes in.  I took a picture.